It’s just minutes before one of the biggest moments of his fashion career, but based on Willy Chavarria’s demeanor you’d never know it. Sitting down in his dressing room, the 58-year-old designer is as calm as can be. His only concern seems to be getting his hair perfectly slicked back. Mission accomplished. Now, he’s ready to take everyone to church.
More specifically, the Fresno-born designer took everyone to the American Cathedral, the location of his debut Paris Fashion Week presentation on January 24.
His Fall/Winter 2025 runway show, titled “Tarantula,” was undoubtedly one of the most anticipated of Paris Fashion Week Men’s. After many years being a highlight of the New York Fashion Week schedule, Chavarria finally made the move to the City of Lights in his eponymous label’s 10th year. It’s the latest in a string of amazing milestones for Chavarria throughout 2024 that included industry honors like CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year, high-profile co-signs from Kendrick Lamar in “Not Like Us,” and the launch of an Adidas partnership.
The show was a star-studded affair. There were superstar Latin musicians J Balvin (who also performed during the runway), Ozuna, Becky G, and Tokischa. Fear of God’s Jerry Lorenzo strutted down the catwalk. There were professional athletes like Chito Vera and Benedict Mathurrin in the mix as well. Despite the high-profile rolodex, the show was about much more than just big celebrity cameos. “Tarantula,” which shares its name with a The Mortal Coil song from the ’80s, was a powerful message about the current status of the world.
“A tarantula is a simple, beautiful creature just trying to get by, but we villainize this creature,” Chavarria told Complex backstage minutes before the show. “It just seems very appropriate with so many of our rights under attack. The show is very much about the power of human identity and the need to preserve our human rights.”
Looks explored various eras of Chicano style. Satin zoot suits were accentuated by oversized lapels and gigantic red flowers pinned to the chest. Barn jackets and plaid shirts were given a luxury twist through exaggerated proportions and premium fabrications. Other subtle signifiers like gold sets of keys jangling from belt loops and rosary beads wrapped around hands accessorizing many looks were further references to the Mexican community that Chavarria champions so authentically. It was what we have come to expect from Chavarria, honoring his culture through clothing executed at the highest level.
Two powerful moments bookended the 63-look Fall/Winter 2025 collection. Dorian Wood kicked off the show with a solo performance in a strapless red dress. To close out the impressive Paris debut, Chavarria and his full cast of models stood in front of an altar draped in beautiful arrangements of red flowers as Bishop Mariann Edger Budde’s Trump inauguration sermon calling for compassion and equality blasted from the sound system. Chavarria’s shirt was emblazoned with the words, “How We Love Is Who We Are.” It was a perfect cap on the night that once again solidified Chavarria’s position as a powerful voice fighting for change and positivity in not just the fashion industry, but the world at large.
The second chapter of Chavarria’s Adidas collaboration, which took up a third of the collection, was another highlight from Friday evening. A black leather bomber jacket with red Three Stripes branding down the sleeves was the hero piece of the capsule. It was meant to nod to Run DMC’s iconic tracksuits from the ’80s. Other highlights included a pleated floor-length skirt that borrowed some sportswear elements akin to Adidas’ iconic track pants and nylon soccer tops with zip-off sleeves. Classic styles like the Forum were flipped into combat boot-like designs with thick soles. The Jabbar Low was given a dressy flair with a squared toe and zebra hair panels.
“I think he’s one of the easier collaborative partners to work with,” says Sven Hermann, senior director of product marketing at Adidas Originals. “While everything is stressful, he always keeps us on pace and his vision is just amazing. I definitely learned a lot along the journey.”
Chavarria and Adidas also celebrated their partnership in the streets of Paris ahead of the show. A customized red low rider pulled up to a handful of locations and gave out co-branded caps, tees, and totes to fans on the street.
“Our two brands mesh amazingly. He lifts us up, we lift him up,” says Hermann. “It’s a perfect collaboration in that sense. Showing in Paris is elevating this relationship to another level.”
Chavarria’s Paris debut makes us eager to see where he can take his brand next on his journey for change. It also proves that, no matter where he is in the world, Chavarria is going to preach his message. As his profile keeps rising, that message will only get stronger.
“I want people to feel change within themselves and I want to stir emotion,” says Chavarria. “I want to change the fashion industry and I want to change the way we see each other. There’s too much hate and divisiveness. I want us to start acting right.”
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